To tie up this gunsmithing story with a bow, I wound up just tapping out the main spring adjusting bar. Does this all sound right? Or am I missing something here? Also, I suppose that I'll need to either tap out or first cut off and then tap out the main spring plunger pin (it appears to be peened at both ends) if I want to replace the main spring with a lighter one, and then tap in a new solid pin or, better, an appropriately sized roll pin. That's going make for quite an adventure when I reinstall the main spring. As far as I can see, there is no way to release the tension on the main spring before attempting to tap out the main spring adjusting bar to one side or the other. But a "main" difference (pun intended) between the Second and Third Models is that Iver Johnson replaced the leaf main spring of the Second Model with the adjustable tension coil main spring arrangement of the Third Model as seen in the drawing. The overall basic disassembly and reassembly of a Third Model gun is the same as that of a Second Model gun, and I've got all that figured out. Now on to the next issue: actually disassembling this Third Model safety automatic hammerless revolver so that I can clean its guts and possibly change the main spring to a lighter one for easier, faster Pocket Pistol shooting. Kudos to The Original Lumpy Gritz - give that man a kewpie doll! The straight pin trick did the trick. I've hit it with PB Blaster to soak overnight, but is there anything else - maybe some unknown-to-me way to grab that concave nut insert while turning the screw from the left side of the grip - that I can try? (I thought for a second or two that I'd somehow bond the insert to the wood, but that thought occurred to me only after I used the PBB and I can't figure out an effective degreaser that wouldn't harm the old plastic Owl's head grips.) The nut insert in the right side grip panel spins with the grip screw, so I cannot remove the grip panels. So I decided that it was necessary to look "under the hood" at the main hammer spring, and that's where I ran into trouble. It was incredibly heavy, actually requiring two fingers to fully pull the trigger. After giving the externals a good cleaning, removing and cleaning the cylinder and its spring-loaded ejector mechanism, and lubing it appropriately during reassembly, I pulled the trigger. if this revolver is in good shooting condition you should not encounter any problems with standard velocity loads.I recently picked up this neat little top-break pocket gun with its positively huge 3" barrel (compared with my 2" H&R Premier. the letter code used for the 22 supershot was "K"īecause of its age and the non-recessed chambers it would be best to limit the firing of this revolver to 22 long rifle standard velocity (target loads) only. there were 3,900 of this model manufactured that year. on the left side of the grip frame under the grips will be another serial number and letter code (usually the same as on the trigger guard) that is the main serial number.īased on the serial number on the trigger guard your 22 supershot serial number 1832 (or 1882) was manufactured in 1928. The 22 supershot was available in either a 7 shot or 9 shot versions. the introduction of the 22 supershot sealed eight model in 1932 limited the appeal of the earlier model that did not have the individual chambers recessed. it is a very limited production revolver with only 22,650 manufactured. The 22 supershot was manufactured between 19.
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